Smoky flavors of a South Texas ranch, inspired by the vaqueros of cattle drives years ago. Shrimp and redfish pulled fresh from the Gulf, a practice mastered during family summers along the coast. The homespun plates of our grandmother—an immigrant from Tampico, Mexico, whose colorful concoctions still brighten these tables. And, of course, the heaping platters of fajitas that made our Houston seafood, Tex-Mex and taqueria restaurant famous. The Goodes were the first in Houston to grill fajitas over mesquite wood, and the city still can’t get enough.
